How to Choose the Right Dive Computer

Choosing a dive computer can feel overwhelming. There are so many models, features, and price points that it’s easy to get lost. The truth is, the best dive computer is the one that matches your style of diving, your future goals, and your personal preferences — not necessarily the one with the most bells and whistles.

This guide walks you through what matters (and what doesn't) when picking your first or next dive computer.

TL;DR - Quick Summary

• Primary Factor is Low Cost : Suunto Zoop Novo ($300)
• Buy Once / Cry Once - No Tech Diving : Shearwater Peregrine TX ($750)
• Buy Once / Cry Once - Maybe Tech Diving : Shearwater Perdix 2 AI ($1200)

Key Factors to Consider

1. Type of Diving You Do (and Plan to Do)

• Recreational diving only? Basic computers with air and Nitrox modes are plenty.
• Technical or deep diving in the future? You’ll want advanced features like trimix support, customizable gradient factors, or multi-gas switching.
• Freediving? Some models offer freedive modes.
• Think about where you are now and where you want to be in 2–3 years.

2. Display Type and Readability

• Wristwatch-style computers are compact but can have small screens.
• Larger screen computers are easier to read, especially in low visibility or older eyes.
• Look for high contrast displays, backlighting, and large numbers if you value fast glances over fashion.

3. Algorithms and Conservatism Settings

Dive computers use mathematical models to estimate your safe limits underwater and during ascent.

• Bühlmann-based models (like those used by Shearwater and DiveSoft) are fully transparent and allow gradient factor control.
• Proprietary models (like Suunto’s RGBM or Oceanic’s Pelagic Z+) are closed systems. You can’t see or change how they calculate decompression, which makes planning and comparison difficult.

Prefer computers using transparent Bühlmann algorithms whenever possible.

4. Air Integration (AI): Highly Recommended

• Many computers pair with a wireless transmitter to show tank pressure on the screen.
• I highly recommend buying an AI-capable computer, even if you delay the transmitter purchase for budget reasons.
• Pros: Reduces console clutter, allows gas time remaining (GTR) estimates, and improves situational awareness.
• Cons: Adds cost, another battery to manage, and transmitters can fail.

Even if you don’t use it now, having the option later is smart future-proofing.

I strongly recommend carrying a simple analog SPG — even if you use air integration. It’s essential redundancy if your transmitter fails or your backup computer doesn’t support AI.

5. Battery Type and Charging

• User-replaceable batteries are handy for remote or travel diving.
• Rechargeable models are common in high-end computers but require charging discipline.

6. Build Quality and Buttons

• Look for large, tactile buttons that work with gloves.
• Sturdy housings resist corrosion, scratches, and drops.
• Test the menus before buying — if it’s confusing in a shop, it’ll be worse underwater.

7. Budget and Long-Term Value

• $250–$450: Reliable entry-level recreational models.
• $500–$900: Feature-rich computers with AI, color screens, or app sync.
• $1000+: Fully featured, tech-ready, long-lasting computers.

You don’t need to buy your forever computer today — but try not to buy something you’ll outgrow next season.

Sample Dive Computers by Tier

Entry-Level (Great for Recreational Diving)

• Aqualung i200C – Compact, Nitrox-capable, Bluetooth.
• Cressi Leonardo – Simple puck-style, solid for new divers.
• Suunto Zoop Novo – Widely used in training, simple to operate, RGBM-based.

Mid-Range (Feature-Rich Without Breaking the Bank)

• Shearwater Peregrine – Big screen, Bühlmann algorithm, very intuitive.
• Suunto D5 – Stylish, full-color screen, mobile app sync.

High-End (Reliable, Transparent, Fully Featured)

If you're spending over $1000 on a dive computer, I can't come up with a good reason not to buy a Shearwater.

• Shearwater Perdix 2 – Bulletproof. Proven. Full Bühlmann with gradient factor control. Used by pros and tech divers worldwide.
• Shearwater Teric – All the power of the Perdix in a sleek watch format. Same algorithm, same reliability.

You're paying for performance and trust. Anything else in this tier is either less flexible, less supported, or built around unnecessary features. Just get the Shearwater.

If You’re Already in Their Ecosystem

If you're already using an Apple Watch or a Garmin fitness watch, it might make sense to stay inside that ecosystem for diving.

• Apple Watch Ultra + Oceanic+ App – Great for casual and travel divers. Subscription-based and less redundant than full dive computers.
• Garmin Descent G1 / Mk2 / Mk2i – Full sports smartwatch + dive computer with air, nitrox, and trimix. Best if you're already deep into Garmin's ecosystem.

These are not ideal for tech or overhead environments, but they’re solid for travel and general recreational diving.

A Quick Note About My Experience

When I bought my first dive computer, I chose a Mares Genius. On paper, it looked great — full trimix support, bright color screen, customizable alarms.

But once I started using it, I ran into real-world problems:

• Promised software updates never appeared, leaving bugs and limitations unaddressed.
• The user interface felt clunky and confusing underwater.
• The charging system was proprietary and fragile — I actually broke the charger cable under normal use.
• The screen layout wasn’t customizable the way I wanted for easy information access.

I ended up selling it and moving to a Shearwater, and the difference was night and day.

Lesson learned: Specs don't tell the whole story. Ease of use, long-term support, and reliability matter a lot when you're 80 feet down.

A Smart Two-Step Strategy

If you're budget-conscious but want to plan for the long haul, consider this approach:

1. Start with a basic, wrist-mounted recreational computer that supports Nitrox (but not AI). Example: Suunto Zoop Novo, Cressi Leonardo, or Aqualung i200C.
2. Later, upgrade to a Shearwater Perdix 2 or Teric when you're ready for air integration or tech features.

The best part? Your original computer becomes a backup.

On a recent trip to Fiji, I saw this play out perfectly: One diver forgot their main computer in their room. But they had clipped a basic Suunto to their BCD as a spare — and just switched to that and did the morning 2-tank dive with zero disruption.

That’s future-proofing done right.

Final Thoughts

A dive computer is one of your most personal pieces of gear. It’s worth taking your time to pick the right one for your needs — not just following what’s popular.

If you don’t have a brand preference, the industry standard is Shearwater. Their computers are widely respected, reliable, and used by both recreational and technical divers around the world.

Whether it’s a basic puck-style model or a top-end wrist computer, the right choice is the one that helps you dive smarter, safer, and with more confidence.